On the evening of May 5th, 2011, the Abel Design Group team was awarded with “Best New Artist” at the 2011 IIDA Product Runway Competition.

Best New Artist Award
Fast forward a month later and we are still recovering. Let’s just say there was more than one late, LATE night sewing session as we scrambled to get our garment right. Not to mention our seam rippers saw quite a LOT of action in the days leading up to the judging panel presentation.
Now that its all over and emotions have settled, I can finally take a few moments to reflect and review the experience with my team mates.
This year’s competition theme was the GRAMMY awards. Each team was assigned a different musical genre to which their garment must somehow represent. At the kickoff party, all of the teams drew the genres at random. We were first up and drew… HEAVY METAL. YIKES!

Ana draws our Genre
Of all of the possible genres, this is probably the one we knew the least about. So of course we drew it. Of course.
On the up side, we drew great sponsors: Knoll and Mechoshade Systems. Susan Quarles and Gaynor Shearer were unable to attend the kick off event. Luckily we had their numbers from having worked with them previously and quickly sent them a text to share the good news: we were their team and were ready to get to work!
Below are some thoughts on the Product Runway 2011 experience as shared by the ADG team – Ana Davoodi, Megan Stark, Stephanie French, Karen Houk and Ezgi Bozkurt:
MS: Within a few minutes we had our phones out researching Heavy Metal inspirations.
KH: The musical genre was a great jumping-off point. Heavy metal provided a pretty deep well of costumes, music, and artist inspiration to draw from. The challenge came from the process of assembling all the great concepts into one cohesive garment.
MS: Working with a musical genre in mind sent the design in a direction it likely would not have found on its own.
KH: When you look at the cover art of [albums from] our genre, there is sort of a mix of two predominant themes: armored men with big hair and men with big hair in jeans and leather jackets. We wanted to create something that evoked both aggression and protection – something that a heavy metal artist could wear on stage.
SF: We started with YouTube videos of Black Sabbath performances and heavy metal album cover designs, but it lead us to more sophisticated sources.
AD: I think having a theme to work with helped us create something more “outside the box” rather than just a pretty dress. We had a chance to use our creative side more freely.
MS: I researched several high fashion designers and had seen a Burberry Prorsum collection that had a strong heavy metal vibe – lots of leather and studding and spikes. We also looked at some Galliano and Gaultier collections for guidance with the silhouette and materials.
AD: There was one jacket I loved that had all these spikey studs all over the shoulder and sleeves. We tried to recreate that look using screws and bolts from the Knoll furniture line with the screws sticking up through the fabric and the bolts as anchors to secure the ‘spikes’ in place.

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection via Style.com
MS: Once we decided on a direction for the design, we met with our sponsors to see what we could actually achieve with the materials available to us. The competition rules required the garment to be made from at least 40% of products from each sponsor (totally 80%) and no more than 20% ‘other’ items, such as lining, buttons, accessories, etc. We also had a material value limit of only $300 for each sponsor, so we knew we had to choose our materials carefully.
KH: We sat down with a huge pile of samples and basically folded, creased, twisted, ripped, and stretched our way through them to get a feel for what it would be like to work with each.
SF: MechoShade had a surprising variety of options and the vinyl-like black metallic fabrics seemed like a natural choice given our musical genre and their stage presence potential. As for Knoll, we wanted to use something that represented the iconic brand as well as our genre and the Generation chair back couldn’t have been more perfect. It gave the garment interesting structure and dimension.
MS: Unfortunately, it was also very expensive. One Generation chair back would have blown our budget and with the design we were envisioning we would need at least two. Fortunately, Susan got with MaryAnn Young at Knoll and was able to source two damaged chair backs for us and we were able to work around the damaged sections. This material was used to make a bustier, a ‘panniers’ belt and the threading mechanism for the chain details at the neck.
SF: I wish the bustier would have turned out to be a bit more structured, but the Generation material turned out to be somewhat difficult to manipulate.
MS: The only way to connect it to the dress shell and in the back was to drill tiny holes into the plastic and then hand sew the pieces on like buttons. Karen took on the belt and made it in much the same way.
KH: My favorite part of the entire outfit is the belt, probably because it turned into my personal project. The buckle is actually a Graham series grommet cover signed by Brian Graham when he was in town – he was so excited about the design and so gracious about signing it for us. But I wish I had been able to engineer it a bit differently so that the panniers met in the back instead of being spaced apart.
SF: The grommet is probably my favorite detail of the design! But its something that most people didn’t know about. Brian Graham gave a private lecture at the Knoll showroom and was very interested in our PR involvement. MaryAnne [Young] had the idea for him to sign the grommet, which he was extremely honored to do for us. We used it as the belt buckle!
MS: As everything came together, we decided to really emphasize the construction of the garment. We hand sewed all of the ‘studding’ on the jacket, made bias tape out of steam pressed Mechoshade strips and finished much of the garment using French seams. The day before the judging event I had to attend a marketing event at a golf course and I sat in our tent and sewed washers onto the jacket most of the day!
AD: I have a sewing machine, and I’ve sewn blankets, pillows, curtains, etc, but never clothes.
KH: When I was little I helped my mother cut out patterns and fabric to make clothes and costumes for school plays. These days I can sew on a button, or hem a skirt, but that’s about it! I’m not a fantastic seamstress, so understanding some of the construction we used to create the jacket and collar I left to Megan. I just cut where I was told to and took it on faith that the end result would work!
MS:I was fortunate enough to have two grandmothers who sewed, embroidered, knitted, quilted, crocheted…the works. I competed in sewing competitions when I was younger and they taught me a lot about garment construction. Then when I was in high school I interned in the costume workshop at Texas State University’s Theater Department. But the last time I touched a sewing machine was probably 15 years ago, so I wasn’t totally confident in my pattern making abilities. Ultimately, there were some things which really turned out great, and some other things which could have been better. We had to rework the bodice at the last minute because once Ana put it on, it got all these weird puckers and folds in the fabric and then gaped in other areas.

Team Abel Design Group 2011: (from left) Karen Houk, Stephanie French, Ana Davoodi, Megan Stark, and Ezgi Bozkurt.
KH: The skirt fringe was a bit of a surprise – it started as an offhand idea, sort of “let’s see what happens,” and turned into a major element that looked awesome.
AD: There were more than a few surprises – like when I melted part of the dress trying to iron it!
MS: One night, the week before the judging, I broke the sewing machine and couldn’t figure out how to fix it. The material was so thick it bent the needle in half and pulled it right out of the machine! I tried putting in a new needle but for some reason it wouldn’t stay put. Thank goodness for Kathy Chauvin in our office! She had another sewing machine she let us use while we tried to get Ana’s machine fixed. Pat Kelly, our Office Manager, was finally able to find the sewing machine owner’s manual online and I was able to fix the machine.
AD: I would have loved sleeves of some sort in order to be more comfortable on stage, but that’s just because I had to wear it. The few minutes before I had to go on stage were so stressful! I was really scared that I would screw it up for my team.
KH: The wait for the show was SO nerve wracking! I kept imagining the dress falling apart backstage and making a desperate dash to the hardware store for parts.
MS: And I was backstage looking at all the other teams and their garments and thinking WOW! When I saw how intricate and well constructed some of the other outfits were I really started to worry that we hadn’t done enough and that our idea wasn’t cohesive enough to stand us a chance of winning anything.
AD: I’ve been to product runway every year since it started in Houston, and thought the concept was something that I wanted to be part of.
KH: The pictures from last year’s competition – the dresses were so creative and it seemed like such a fun challenge.
SF:Getting everyone on the team together at one time to work on the project was a struggle, but it paid off in the end.

Ana working it in Heavy Metal at Product Runway 2011
MS: As much hard work as it was, I honestly can’t wait to compete again next year! I think we learned what works and what doesn’t in terms of team coordination and the planning process. There’s no way to predict what we’ll do next year, but I can definitely say we’ll be prepared for whatever gets thrown at us!